Little art history and appeal for more awareness and sustainability
fashion comes from modus = Latin. manner, measure, “measured”, is the rule of wearing and consuming things within a certain period of time. It changes over time according to people's needs. Objects and items of clothing that are rated positively over several periods of time, on the other hand, are referred to as Classic.
Colloquially often with clothes is equated fashion so subject to constant change, but for me fashion is more:
Costume, drapery and tailoring belong to the arts and crafts and are objects of consideration of the cultural, social and art history, so it is a permanent part of our cultures, an expression of our ability to deal with our social and natural environment. Our social status is reflected in our clothing. Whether we want it or think it's good or not - I know a lot of people who first look at the shoes of a new person: style, expensive, well-groomed or not ...
During my art history studies I was particularly interested in costume studies because I worked for our ensemble for historical music and dance from the 15th to 17th centuries. Century "Ludus Venti" tailored costumes. What clothes did the musicians wear at that time? Answer: Some of them were very valuable pieces that they received from their clients as travelers or town musicians! The undergarments usually consisted of a simple straight-cut tunic, but the outer garments were elaborate and made according to the prevailing fashion.
The importance of fashion in the Middle Ages
As secondary sources, huge volumes with illustrations were available to me in the institute's libraries. The primary sources for this were above all contemporary pictures of all kinds, whereby I was particularly fascinated by one handwriting: The Duke of Berry's Book of Hours, The Très Riches Heures of the Duc de Berry or short Très Riches Heures), the most famous illustrated Manuscript 15th century. It was founded in the period between about 1410 and 1416 by the Brothers of Limburg for their employer Johann von Berry painted and completed in the years 1485 to 1489.
Here the calendar sheet for the month of April (left), which shows the engagement of a senior couple during an excursion. Colors, patterns, headgear and hairstyles already correspond to our current understanding of fashionby highlighting the importance of the characters. On the calendar sheet for June (right) we long for the common people at work in tunics and work clothes.
With the help of representations in manuscripts, one can see the change in the clothing of high personalities from the 9th century AD from strips of fabric often only draped over belts to tailor-made clothing that emphasized certain parts of the body and posture, such as the highlighting of the chest and shoulders of males. Women were not depicted until the 15th century, and when they were, then as goddesses, empress mothers, wives or servants. Since the High and Late Middle Ages and the Renaissance there have been more pictures, but often as decorative accessories for the social position of men and less for their own sake. But we see precious clothes, which underline social position and set them apart from the general people - which is what we understand today about fashion fits.
Certain colors were reserved for the clothes of noble people, as the dyeing of the fabrics was complex and expensive, such as blue and red. Black was reserved for the nobility, especially since the time of Philip the Good of Burgundy (1396–1467). The common people wore beige and brown tones.
Today black is still the color of certain professional groups such as architects, musicians, intellectuals, goths ... for me it was simply work clothing for many years. Black clothing still saves me the agony of choice when looking into the closet. I've wore color since my children were born (I didn't want to scare them), at work it stayed with black, and I've only had more courage to color since I've been wearing compression tights.
From practical to aesthetic
Clothing fashion also implies the aesthetic meaning and goes beyond the understanding of clothing as a pure commodity. The term takes into account the fact that clothing is not only used for the human body to protect against heat or cold or other impairment by the outside world, but also to make it aesthetic. This includes decorating it, shaping it, highlighting its advantages or concealing components of the appearance that are perceived as deficiencies, as well as conveying an aesthetic mood, expressing an attitude towards life or making an aesthetic statement.
Depending on the class and means, nettle, hemp, linen, wool and cotton were used to make clothes until the invention of nylon thread in 1939; higher classes bought silk and refined cloth. Today, many cheap synthetic fibers made from various materials have been added, such as viscose and microfibers.
When fashion loses its value
Especially since the turn of the millennium, however, clothing seems to have degenerated into a consumer item - cheap, fast-moving. Subjected to a dictation that changes every year, it's kind of a disposable item. Transport and trade cost more than production, low wages in Asia make it possible. What does that say about us?
Represents our clothes, ours Cheap fashion, our social position, our inner attitude, OUR creativity and our attitude to life?
On the one hand, my letter is an appeal for sustainability and appreciation when buying fashionable clothing: towards yourself, those who make clothes and towards nature, which provides us with its resources for production. Clothing should not be consumed. Think about what happens to the garment after it has been worn: is it recycled, composted, does it end up in the sea? According to the Arte broadcast "With open cards" sources cited on Saturday, March 20, 2021, 35% of the microplastics in our oceans are from the clothing industry! (References see below)
Dress more consciously
Please think about it the next time you buy a top embroidered with plastic sequins or wear it consciously and with dignity on important occasions and take care of it so that it does not end up in the trash too quickly.
That is why I formulate the second appeal: use it fashionto represent you and to say something about yourself. It must fashion not necessarily be 'beneficial' for the wearer.
fashion is sufficient for itself, for example in shows as an expression of creativity, art and worldview. That's why I always have to smile when the girls from GNTM can't get excited about the models they are supposed to present on the catwalk. It's not about underlining YOUR TYPE in an advantageous manner, but rather that they should express the intention of the fashion designer while running.
If I have myself photographed in AnRa fashion made from natural textiles, it is not always beneficial for my figure. Some skirts and blouses even accentuate my edema belly! But in these clothes, with my gray hair and colored tights, I can now be a cracker and show my zest for life and my commitment to sustainable clothing made here. So in this case thanks to Medi, because without your patterns I would have degenerated into a resigned old gray mouse.
Fashion is a balancing act
For me, fashion or clothing is and remains a balancing act between practical everyday coverage and the desire to show myself how I feel and of course what I can afford financially. But since I've been wearing compression garments and, above all, very consciously showing them, I've become even more picky. I wear old clothes until they fall apart, and new items have to be durable, of high quality and sustainable. Because that's exactly what our compression is all about: In recent years, all manufacturers have continuously strived to improve fit, function, quality, durability and appearance. Some models have to Classic developed, some are too fashion become. And HOW, Caroline Sprott and the team here show you with a lot of love and dedication.
Thank you Caro and Lipedema Mode!
Note d. Red .: Please, dear Ursula! : - *
If you liked the article, Ursula would be very happy if you buy her a virtual cup of coffee!
- 30% microplastic from clothing in the world's oceans
- Wikipedia articles "Fashion" and "Costume Studies"
- Ursula Fehling, costume expert
Transcript of the lecture Prof. Dr. Gisela Zick "Costume Studies" University of Cologne 1977
- Wolfgang Bruhn, Max Tilke: Costume history in pictures. An overview of the costumes of all times and peoples from ancient times to modern times including the national costumes of Europe and the costumes of the non-European countries. Wasmuth, Tübingen 1955. Reprint Orbis, Munich 2001, ISBN-3 572-01231-7.
- Gisela Krause, Gertrud Lenning: Small costume studies. 13th edition Schiele & Schön, Berlin 2003, ISBN-3 7949-0701-9.
- Raymond Cazelles, Johannes Rathofer: The Duc de Berry's Book of Hours. Les Tres Riches Heures. VMA-Verlag, Wiesbaden 1996, ISBN-3 928127-31-4.